Pattern Making for Activewear: Special Considerations for Performance Garments

Why Activewear Pattern Making Requires Specialized Expertise

Activewear isn't just fashionable clothing that happens to stretch—it's technical performance equipment that must function flawlessly under demanding conditions. A yoga pant that rides down during downward dog isn't just annoying; it's a design failure. Compression wear that doesn't compress properly offers no performance benefit. Running shorts with chafing seams transform a pleasant jog into painful ordeal.

At COKAA by JR Corporation, our 20 years of pattern making experience includes extensive activewear specialization where technical performance intersects with aesthetic appeal. Creating patterns for stretch fabrics and performance garments demands fundamentally different approaches than traditional fashion pattern making. The stakes are higher—activewear must deliver on functional promises while meeting style expectations.

This comprehensive guide reveals the specialized knowledge, techniques, and considerations that separate amateur activewear patterns from professional performance garments. Whether you're launching an athletic brand, adding activewear to existing collections, or seeking to understand what makes technical patterns different, you'll discover exactly what activewear pattern design requires for marketplace success.

The Activewear Market Opportunity

Explosive Growth: The global activewear market exceeds $350 billion annually and continues expanding as athleisure blurs boundaries between athletic and everyday wear. Consumers demand garments performing technically while looking stylish enough for coffee runs and casual outings.

Technical Expectations: Modern consumers are educated and demanding. They understand moisture-wicking, compression levels, and seamless construction. Poor-performing activewear generates immediate negative reviews and returns—pattern quality directly impacts brand reputation and profitability.

Competitive Differentiation: In crowded markets dominated by major brands, superior fit and performance create competitive advantages. Small brands winning on technical execution build loyal followings willing to pay premium prices for garments that genuinely perform better.

Part 1: Understanding Stretch Fabrics and Their Behavior

Activewear pattern making begins with comprehensive fabric knowledge. Stretch materials behave completely differently than stable wovens requiring pattern adaptations.

Types of Stretch Fabrics in Activewear

Single Jersey Knits:

• Construction: Single knit structure, right and wrong sides different

• Stretch: Primarily crosswise (horizontal) stretch, minimal lengthwise

• Recovery: Moderate, can stretch out with wear

• Uses: T-shirts, casual athletic tops, lightweight layers

• Pattern considerations: Moderate negative ease, stabilize necklines and hems

Interlock Knits:

• Construction: Double knit structure, identical both sides

• Stretch: Moderate stretch both directions, more stable than single jersey

• Recovery: Good recovery, maintains shape better

• Uses: Polo shirts, dresses, moderate-support garments

• Pattern considerations: Less negative ease than single jersey, good for structure

Rib Knits:

• Construction: Vertical ribs creating texture and stretch

• Stretch: Excellent crosswise stretch, springs back strongly

• Recovery: Excellent recovery, very resilient

• Uses: Cuffs, waistbands, body-hugging garments, shapewear

• Pattern considerations: Significant negative ease possible, extremely form-fitting

French Terry / Fleece:

• Construction: Knit face, looped or brushed back

• Stretch: Moderate stretch, heavier weight reduces stretch

• Recovery: Good recovery, comfortable with body heat

• Uses: Sweatshirts, joggers, warm-up gear, loungewear

• Pattern considerations: Account for fabric weight, less negative ease than thin knits

Performance Knits (Technical Fabrics):

• Construction: Specialized knit structures, often proprietary

• Stretch: Engineered stretch characteristics (2-way or 4-way)

• Recovery: Excellent recovery, maintains compression

• Uses: Leggings, compression wear, high-performance athletics

• Pattern considerations: Fabric-specific testing essential, compression engineering

Spandex/Lycra Blends:

• Construction: Natural or synthetic fibers blended with elastane

• Stretch: 2-way (horizontal) or 4-way (horizontal and vertical) stretch

• Recovery: Excellent, spandex content determines recovery quality

• Uses: Virtually all modern activewear includes some elastane (4-20%)

• Pattern considerations: Higher spandex = more negative ease possible

Measuring Stretch Percentage

Accurate stretch measurement essential for proper pattern drafting:

Standard Stretch Test:

1. Mark 10cm on fabric at rest (no tension)

2. Stretch fabric until resistance felt (not maximum stretch)

3. Measure stretched distance

4. Calculate: (Stretched measurement - 10cm) / 10cm × 100 = stretch %

Example:

• 10cm stretches to 14cm

• (14 - 10) / 10 × 100 = 40% stretch

Stretch Categories:

• Low stretch: 0-25%

• Moderate stretch: 25-50%

• High stretch: 50-75%

• Super stretch: 75-100%+

Recovery Test: After stretching, release fabric and wait 30 seconds. Good recovery means fabric returns to within 5% of original dimension. Poor recovery indicates fabric will bag out during wear.

Fabric Weight and Density Impact

Lightweight Performance Fabrics (100-150 gsm):

• Maximum breathability and moisture management

• Requires more support from pattern engineering

• Compression must come from pattern fit, not fabric

• Seam selection critical (visible through thin fabric)

• Uses: Running singlets, hot yoga, summer athletics

Medium Weight Performance (150-250 gsm):

• Balance of support, coverage, breathability

• Moderate inherent compression from fabric density

• Most versatile for varied activities

• Pattern can rely somewhat on fabric properties

• Uses: Leggings, training tops, all-purpose activewear

Heavyweight Performance (250+ gsm):

• Maximum coverage and support

• Significant fabric compression contribution

• Less pattern engineering needed for support

• Warmth and durability priorities

• Uses: Winter running, outdoor sports, heavy training

COKAA Pattern Consideration: Our custom pattern making service tests fabrics before pattern development. Same design requires different patterns in different fabric weights—we don't assume one pattern fits all materials.

Part 2: Negative Ease and Compression Engineering

Fundamental difference between activewear and regular fashion: intentional negative ease creating compression, support, and performance benefits.

Understanding Negative Ease

Definition: Negative ease means pattern is smaller than body measurements. Fabric stretch allows garment to fit while creating compression.

Positive Ease (Traditional Fashion):

• Garment larger than body for comfort and movement

• Bust measurement 92cm → garment measures 97cm (5cm positive ease)

• Relies on fabric being stable, non-stretchy

Negative Ease (Activewear):

• Garment smaller than body, stretches to fit

• Bust measurement 92cm → garment measures 82cm (10cm negative ease, ~11% compression)

• Relies on fabric stretch and recovery

Calculating Appropriate Negative Ease

Formula: Pattern measurement = Body measurement × (1 - Compression %)

Example for 92cm bust, targeting 10% compression:

• Pattern measurement = 92 × (1 - 0.10) = 82.8cm

Stretch Percentage vs. Negative Ease: Fabric must stretch MORE than negative ease percentage to avoid over-compression:

• 10% negative ease requires minimum 15-20% fabric stretch

• 20% negative ease requires minimum 30-40% fabric stretch

• Safety margin prevents garments being uncomfortably tight

Compression Levels by Garment Type:

Light Compression (5-10% negative ease):

• Comfortable all-day wear

• Slight shaping, minimal performance benefit

• Uses: Casual athleisure, yoga, light activity

Moderate Compression (10-15% negative ease):

• Noticeable support and shaping

• Muscle stabilization during movement

• Uses: Training wear, running, gym workouts

High Compression (15-25% negative ease):

• Significant support and performance benefits

• Muscle compression aids recovery

• Can be restrictive if poorly designed

• Uses: Compression tights, recovery wear, serious athletics

Targeted Compression: Different body areas may require different compression levels in same garment:

• Waistband: High compression (20%) for secure fit

• Thighs: Moderate compression (12%) for support

• Calves: Light compression (8%) for comfort

• Strategic engineering optimizes performance

Support Structures in Stretch Patterns

Internal Support Methods:

Power Mesh Panels:

• Firmer mesh fabric in strategic locations

• Provides compression without restricting stretch

• Common in waistbands, bust support, core areas

• Pattern must accommodate dual-fabric properties

Elastic Integration:

• Decorative or functional elastic bands

• Stabilizes areas needing extra support

• Waistbands, leg openings, bust bands

• Pattern includes elastic specifications and stretch calculations

Multi-Layer Construction:

• Inner layer provides compression

• Outer layer provides coverage and style

• Each layer drafted with appropriate ease

• Complex pattern engineering required

Strategic Seaming:

• Seam placement provides support without bulk

• Princess seams shape bust areas

• Panel seaming in leggings creates shaping

• Seam selection affects both support and aesthetics

Part 3: Movement and Mobility Considerations

Activewear must facilitate full range of motion without restriction, riding up, or exposure issues.

Analyzing Activity-Specific Movement

Yoga and Stretching:

• Extreme flexibility required

• Forward folds, inversions, wide leg positions

• Patterns must stretch significantly in all directions

• Critical areas: crotch depth (prevents tearing), waistband (no rolling), armholes (full arm movement)

Running and Cardio:

• Repetitive motion, high impact

• Leg movement, arm pumping

• No chafing from seams or rubbing

• Critical areas: inseam length (no ride-up), armholes (no binding), necklines (stability)

Weight Training:

• Powerful movements, muscle engagement

• Squats, deadlifts, overhead presses

• Support during exertion, recovery between sets

• Critical areas: waistband (no roll during bending), shoulder mobility, compression consistency

Cycling:

• Seated position, leg rotation

• Extended time in bent-forward posture

• Saddle interface critical

• Critical areas: back rise (coverage when leaning forward), leg length (no bunching), chamois placement

Swimming and Water Sports:

• Resistance to water drag

• Chlorine and saltwater exposure

• Must maintain fit when wet

• Critical areas: coverage (no transparency), secure closures, hydrodynamic seaming

Gussets and Crotch Depth Engineering

Why Gussets Matter: Standard pant patterns use curved crotch seam. In stretch fabrics during deep movements (squats, lunges, splits), this seam endures extreme stress. Poor design causes:

• Seam splitting or tearing

• Uncomfortable pulling

• Camel toe visibility

• Restricted movement

Diamond Gusset:

• Diamond-shaped insert at crotch intersection

• Distributes stress across more fabric

• Allows deeper squats without strain

• Standard in quality activewear

Gusset Pattern Drafting:

• Typically 5-8cm wide, 8-12cm long

• Fabric cut on bias for maximum stretch

• Carefully matched to front and back crotch curves

• Our fashion pattern making service engineers gussets for activity level and fabric properties

Crotch Depth Calculation: Deeper crotch prevents pulling but can cause sagging:

• Measured: Body crotch depth + ease

• Sitting crotch depth > standing (account for seated activity)

• Stretch fabric allows less ease than woven

• Typical activewear: Body measurement + 1-2cm ease only

• Test through full movement range

Waistband Engineering

Types of Activewear Waistbands:

Wide Elastic Waistband (5-8cm):

• Provides support and prevents rolling

• Distributes pressure across wider area

• Often includes power mesh lining

• Pattern: Two-layer construction, precise elastic calculations

High-Rise Performance:

• Extends above natural waist (8-12cm+)

• Core compression and support

• Coverage during bending

• Pattern: Extended rise, engineered shaping

Low-Profile Elastic:

• Narrow elastic (2-3cm) for minimal feeling

• Less support, prioritizes comfort

• Suitable for light activity

• Pattern: Simple fold-over or enclosed elastic

Knitted-In Waistband:

• Ribbed fabric creates elastic effect

• Seamless appearance

• Requires specialized machinery

• Pattern: Integrated waistband draft, not separate piece

Drawstring Addition:

• Secondary security beyond elastic

• Adjustability for body variation

• Aesthetic detail

• Pattern: Includes channel or external loops

Armhole and Shoulder Mobility

Traditional vs. Activewear Armholes:

• Traditional: Fitted armhole limits overhead movement

• Activewear: Lower, wider armhole allows full rotation

• Trade-off: Mobility vs. coverage

Pattern Modifications:

• Deepen armhole 1-3cm for overhead movement

• Widen armhole 1-2cm for forward reach

• Reshape curve for smooth transition

• Test through full range of motion

Sleeve Construction:

• Raglan sleeves maximize mobility (seam from underarm to neck)

• Set-in sleeves can work with proper armhole engineering

• Sleeveless designs eliminate restriction entirely

• Our 3D pattern making simulates movement before physical samples

Part 4: Moisture Management and Seam Selection

Technical performance requires attention to construction methods supporting fabric technology.

Moisture-Wicking Fabric Integration

How Moisture-Wicking Works: Performance fabrics engineered to pull moisture from skin to fabric surface where it evaporates quickly. Pattern and construction must support this technology, not impede it.

Pattern Considerations:

Fabric Orientation:

• Some technical fabrics have directional wicking properties

• Grainline placement affects performance

• Manufacturer specifications critical

Seam Placement:

• Avoid seams in high-sweat areas when possible

• Side seams, armhole seams better than center back seams

• Strategic paneling channels moisture flow

Ventilation Panels:

• Mesh inserts in high-heat areas

• Back panels, underarm gussets, inner thighs

• Pattern accommodates fabric transition

• Ensures breathability where needed most

Flatlock and Specialty Seam Construction

Why Standard Seams Fail in Activewear:

• Bulky seam allowances create pressure points during movement

• Chafing from seam rubbing against skin during repetitive motion

• Traditional seams can restrict stretch

• Seam bulk visible through thin performance fabrics

Flatlock Seaming:

• Seams lay flat against body, minimal bulk

• Decorative appearance on garment exterior

• Excellent for high-stretch fabrics

• Strong, flexible, comfortable

• Pattern requires minimal or zero seam allowance (fabric edges meet rather than overlap)

Coverstitch / Binding:

• Elastic binding at edges (necklines, armholes, leg openings)

• Stretches with garment, no restriction

• Professional finished appearance

• Pattern accounts for binding width and stretch

Bonded / Welded Seams:

• Adhesive or heat-bonding instead of thread

• Completely smooth, zero bulk

• Waterproof in swimwear

• Pattern requires precise edge finishing

Seam Placement Strategy: Our custom pattern making service strategically places seams:

• Avoid high-friction areas (inner thigh, underarm)

• Use seaming for functional support (princess seams for shaping)

• Consider aesthetic (contrasting thread on flatlock creates design detail)

• Ensure seams enhance rather than impede performance

Part 5: Support Features and Functional Elements

Activewear patterns must integrate functional elements beyond basic garment construction.

Built-In Sports Bra Engineering

Why Built-In Support Matters: Many activewear tops include integrated shelf bras or support layers. This requires specialized pattern engineering.

Support Levels:

Light Support (Yoga, Walking):

• Simple shelf bra (single layer elastic band)

• Minimal compression

• Pattern: Integrated band with elastic casing

Moderate Support (Training, Dance):

• Double-layer construction

• Compression from pattern fit

• Elastic underband for stability

• Pattern: Dual-layer underbust area with graduated compression

High Support (Running, High-Impact):

• Encapsulation structure (cups separate breasts)

• Compression PLUS encapsulation

• Wide straps distributing weight

• Adjustable features

• Pattern: Complex multi-piece construction with engineered support zones

Pattern Elements:

• Underbust band (firm elastic or power mesh)

• Supportive side panels

• Wide straps (minimum 3-4cm for high support)

• Internal power mesh layer

• Each element requires precise pattern drafting

Pocket Integration

Functional Pocket Requirements:

Phone Pockets:

• Large enough for modern smartphones (8-16cm)

• Secure closure or compression preventing bouncing

• Accessible without removing garment

• Typical placement: thigh pockets in leggings, center back waistband pocket

Key Pockets:

• Small secure pocket (6-8cm)

• Internal or external

• Often in waistband or side seam

Card/ID Pockets:

• Flat, small (7×10cm)

• Usually interior for security

• Armband pocket in tops

Pattern Considerations:

• Pocket placement affects garment stretch and compression

• Must not create bulk or lumps when loaded

• Opening design prevents items falling out during movement

• Strategic positioning maintains aesthetic

• Our pattern consultation service addresses pocket placement in design phase to avoid problems later

Hem and Edge Finishing

Raw Edge / Laser-Cut Finishes:

• No hem, edges cut cleanly with laser

• Fabric must not fray (bonded knits)

• Lightest, most flexible finish

• Pattern: No hem allowance needed

Elastic Band Finishes:

• Fold-over elastic or clear elastic

• Stretchy, comfortable, secure

• Pattern: Includes elastic width, stretch calculations

Lettuce Edge (Wave Finish):

• Decorative rolled edge that waves

• Created by stretching while serging

• Feminine aesthetic for activewear

• Pattern: Minimal hem allowance

Wide Hem Bands:

• Contrasting rib or fabric band

• Added weight helps garment stay in place

• Pattern: Separate hem band piece, calculated stretch

Part 6: Grading and Size Range Considerations

Activewear grading presents unique challenges due to fabric stretch and compression engineering.

Stretch Fabric Grading Principles

Different from Woven Grading:

• Stretch compensates for body variation

• Each size doesn't need as much dimensional change

• Grade increments smaller than woven garments

Typical Grade Rules:

Woven Garments:

• Bust: 5cm per size

• Waist: 5cm per size

• Hip: 5cm per size

Stretch Activewear:

• Bust: 3-4cm per size

• Waist: 3-4cm per size

• Hip: 3-4cm per size

• Reduced increments because stretch accommodates variation

Length Grading: Lengths grade normally:

• Inseam: 2-3cm per size

• Torso length: 1-2cm per size

• Body proportions still vary by size

Compression Consistency Across Sizes

Challenge: Maintaining consistent compression feel across size range. If negative ease percentage stays constant but fabric stretch varies by body region, compression feel differs between sizes.

Solution Strategies:

Proportional Compression:

• Small sizes may need 8% negative ease

• Large sizes may need 12% negative ease

• Achieves similar compression feel across sizes

• Requires testing and refinement

Multi-Fabric Approach:

• Different fabric blends for different size ranges

• Adjust spandex content for size-specific performance

• More complex manufacturing but better results

Pattern Engineering:

• Adjust pattern beyond simple grade rules

• Compensation for how stretch interacts with body curves

• Our pattern grading and marking service specializes in activewear size consistency

Extended Sizing in Activewear

Special Considerations:

Body Shape Variation:

• Plus-size bodies have different proportions

• Compression needs may differ

• Comfort balance becomes more critical

• Support requirements increase

Fabric Performance:

• Higher stretch percentages needed for larger sizes

• Recovery must be excellent (poor recovery more noticeable)

• Opacity critical (thin stretched fabric shows more)

Psychological Factors:

• Plus-size consumers particularly sensitive to compression feel

• "Squeezed" vs "supported" perception crucial

• Sizing and fit must be confidence-building

COKAA Approach: Our plus size pattern service applies activewear expertise to extended sizing, ensuring performance and comfort across complete size ranges without compromise.

Part 7: Testing and Validation for Activewear

Performance garments require more rigorous testing than fashion apparel.

Wear Testing Protocols

Static Fit Testing: Standard fitting on dress form or fit model at rest:

• Basic fit check

• Visual assessment

• Initial measurement verification

Dynamic Movement Testing: Essential for activewear validation:

Yoga/Flexibility Test:

• Deep squats (checking crotch, waistband)

• Forward folds (back coverage, waistband stability)

• Arm raises (armhole comfort, torso length)

• Inversions (if relevant)

Running/Impact Test:

• Jogging in place (bounce test)

• Arm swinging motion

• Check for ride-up, bounce, chafing

• Seam stress assessment

Strength Training Simulation:

• Squat position held (compression hold test)

• Overhead reach (shoulder mobility)

• Bending movements (waistband roll test)

Extended Wear Test:

• 30-60 minutes of actual activity

• Assess comfort over time

• Check for pressure points developing

• Evaluate moisture management performance

Fabric Performance Testing

Stretch and Recovery:

• Repeated stretch cycles (50-100 times)

• Measure recovery after each cycle

• Fabric that bags out after 20 squats fails

Opacity Testing:

• Stretch fabric to typical wearing tension

• Check transparency (light behind fabric)

• Squat test (fabric stretched across curves)

• Critical for leggings and tights

Moisture Management:

• Wet garment and wear during activity

• Assess drying speed

• Check if fabric becomes heavy or clingy when wet

• Evaluate odor retention

Durability:

• Seam strength testing (pull testing)

• Abrasion resistance (repeated friction)

• Wash durability (multiple wash cycles)

• Pilling resistance

3D Virtual Prototyping for Activewear

Benefits:

Movement Simulation: Our 3D pattern making can simulate body movement:

• Virtual model performs yoga poses

• Running motion simulation

• Identify restriction or pulling before physical samples

Fabric Behavior Modeling:

• Input fabric stretch percentage

• Software simulates how material behaves

• Visualize compression and fit

• Adjust patterns digitally before cutting fabric

Multi-Angle Assessment:

• See garment from all perspectives simultaneously

• Identify coverage issues

• Check seam placement aesthetics

• Faster iteration than physical samples

Limitations:

• Cannot fully replicate fabric hand or comfort

• Moisture behavior not modeled

• Physical testing still necessary for final validation

• Virtual serves as pre-testing, not replacement

Part 8: Common Activewear Pattern Making Mistakes

Learning from typical errors prevents costly problems.

Mistake 1: Incorrect Negative Ease Calculation

Problem: Too much negative ease = uncomfortable, restrictive garment. Too little = baggy, poor performance.

Solution:

• Test fabric stretch accurately

• Calculate negative ease conservatively

• Create graduated mock-ups (8%, 10%, 12% negative ease)

• Test on body to find sweet spot

• Our fashion pattern making service includes fabric testing before pattern drafting

Mistake 2: Ignoring Fabric Direction

Problem: Many performance fabrics have different stretch horizontally vs. vertically. Wrong grainline placement ruins performance.

Solution:

• Test fabric stretch in all directions

• Note if 2-way or 4-way stretch

• Mark pattern grainlines carefully

• Some designs require specific orientation for function

Mistake 3: Standard Seam Allowances

Problem: Using typical 1.5cm seam allowances creates bulk inappropriate for activewear.

Solution:

• Reduce seam allowances (6-10mm common)

• Use flatlock seaming (minimal allowance)

• Plan seam type during pattern phase

• Seam finishing method affects pattern allowances

Mistake 4: Neglecting Movement Testing

Problem: Garment fits perfectly standing still, fails during actual activity.

Solution:

• Always test through movement range

• Include activity-specific movements

• Extend wear testing (comfort over time)

• Virtual testing helpful but physical validation essential

Mistake 5: One-Size-Fits-All Grading

Problem: Applying same grade rules across all fabric types fails. Different stretch percentages need different grading approaches.

Solution:

• Grade specific to fabric properties

• Test graded sizes physically

• Adjust compression across sizes for consistency

• Our pattern grading and marking includes fabric-specific approaches

Part 9: Sustainable Activewear Pattern Considerations

Modern consumers demand both performance and environmental responsibility.

Fabric Selection Impact

Recycled Polyester:

• Made from post-consumer plastic bottles

• Performance comparable to virgin polyester

• Pattern considerations similar to standard polyester

• May have slightly different stretch/recovery

• Test before finalizing patterns

Natural Performance Fabrics:

• Merino wool (natural moisture management)

• Bamboo blends (soft, antibacterial)

• Organic cotton blends

• Different hand and drape than synthetic

• Patterns may need adaptation for natural fiber characteristics

Innovative Materials:

• Econyl (recycled nylon from fishing nets)

• Plant-based fabrics (algae, coffee grounds)

• Each has unique properties

• Pattern testing critical with new materials

Zero-Waste Pattern Engineering

Challenges in Activewear:

• Stretch fabrics make zero-waste difficult (grain requirements)

• Curved pattern pieces create gaps in layouts

• Small pattern pieces (gussets, pockets) hard to optimize

Strategies:

Efficient Marker Making:

• Optimize pattern layouts minimize waste

• 5-8% waste typical, under 5% excellent

• Digital marker making software helps

• Small waste pieces used for accessories

Design-for-Efficiency:

• Straight-grain pieces where possible

• Minimize pattern piece count

• Strategic panel shapes nest efficiently

Scrap Utilization:

• Scrunchies, headbands from small pieces

• Bag linings or internal pockets

• Cleaning cloths (performance fabrics excellent)

Durability Through Pattern Design

Longer-Lasting Garments = More Sustainable:

Reinforcement Planning:

• High-stress areas reinforced during pattern phase

• Double-layer crotch gussets

• Reinforced waistband construction

• Bartack stitching at stress points planned in pattern

Quality Construction:

• Seam selection for durability

• Appropriate seam allowances

• Quality finishes that withstand wear

Timeless Design:

• Classic silhouettes over trendy details

• Patterns create garments worn for years

• Performance over fast-fashion aesthetics

Conclusion: The Technical Art of Activewear Pattern Making

Activewear pattern making sits at the intersection of technical engineering and creative design. It demands comprehensive understanding of stretch fabrics, body mechanics, garment performance, and construction methods unique to athletic wear. The difference between amateur and professional activewear patterns is immediately obvious to discerning consumers—inadequate patterns produce garments that look right but fail functionally, generating returns, negative reviews, and damaged brand reputation.

At COKAA by JR Corporation, our 20 years of pattern making experience includes extensive activewear specialization across every category: yoga wear, running apparel, gym training gear, compression garments, swimwear, and athleisure. We understand that activewear patterns aren't simply fashion patterns with stretch—they're technical documents engineering performance into fabric.

Whether you're launching an activewear brand competing against established players, expanding existing collections into athletic categories, or optimizing current activewear patterns for better performance, professional pattern making expertise separates marketplace success from expensive failures. The technical knowledge, specialized testing, and systematic validation processes required for activewear simply cannot be improvised or learned quickly.

Partner with pattern makers who understand that activewear consumers demand both style and substance—garments that look great and perform flawlessly during the activities they're designed for. Your brand's reputation depends on patterns that deliver on technical promises while meeting aesthetic expectations.

Ready to create activewear that truly performs? Contact COKAA for specialized activewear pattern making services backed by decades of technical expertise.

Frequently Asked Questions About Activewear Pattern Making

How is activewear pattern making different from regular fashion pattern making?

Activewear uses negative ease (patterns smaller than body), stretch fabrics requiring different drafting methods, specialized seaming for comfort and durability, movement-tested fit, and functional elements like compression zones and moisture management. Traditional fashion uses positive ease, stable fabrics, standard construction, and static fitting. The entire pattern making philosophy differs.

What stretch percentage do I need in fabric for leggings?

Minimum 40-50% stretch in both directions (4-way stretch) for leggings. Higher stretch (60-75%) allows more compression and better movement accommodation. Excellent recovery essential—fabric must return to original shape after stretching. Test recovery: stretch and release repeatedly; fabric should bounce back fully within seconds.

Can I convert regular pants patterns to activewear leggings?

Not recommended. Regular pants use positive ease; activewear uses negative ease. Crotch curves, rise calculations, leg shaping, and waistband construction all differ fundamentally. Better to start with activewear-specific base patterns or commission professional activewear pattern development ensuring proper technical foundations.

How do I calculate negative ease for compression garments?

Formula: Pattern measurement = Body measurement × (1 - Compression %). Example: 100cm hip with 15% compression = 100 × 0.85 = 85cm pattern measurement. Fabric must stretch MORE than compression percentage (15% compression needs 25-35% fabric stretch minimum). Always test—too much compression is uncomfortable, too little provides no benefit.

What seam types work best for activewear?

Flatlock seams (minimal bulk, flexible), coverstitch (stretchy edge finishing), overlock/serged seams (stretch accommodation), bonded/welded seams (zero bulk, waterproof). Avoid standard straight seams—they restrict stretch and create bulk. Our custom pattern making service specifies appropriate seam types during pattern development considering fabric properties and garment function.

Do I need special equipment to sew activewear patterns?

Serger/overlocker highly recommended (stretch seams, clean finishing). Coverstitch machine ideal for hems and bindings. Standard sewing machine can work with stretch needles, ballpoint needles, and stretch stitches, though results less professional. Industrial equipment offers best quality for production. Patterns should specify construction methods matching available equipment.

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